I'm back from Holiday, safe and sound, and have had the pleasure to poke
around some of my neighboring countries. Boy are they all so different!!
Itinerary shifted a little bit from the original plan, but not much. In a
nutshell:
I (hitch)hiked from Divundu to Katima Mulilo where I met up with Rachel and
Mita. We then transited through Kasane, Botswana to (somewhat nervously)
cross into Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. We spent more time there than we
expected because we all fell in love with the place! While there we took a
day trip to Livingstone, Zambia (bleh). We had planned to go back to
Botswana to do a safari through Chobe National Park, but on the
recommendation of a S. African tour guide we decided to go deeper into
Botswana and explore the Okavango Delta (via hike to Maun) instead. We did
a 3 day/2 night Mokoro trip (explained later) with walking safaris. Mita
went on to Windhoek to meet a friend, and Rachel and I traveled from Maun to
Shakawe and then back into Namibia.
We pitched tents and camped the whole way. After the first hard and cold
night I wondered if I wasn't going to break down and opt for a dorm room for
the rest of the trip. But as I'm learning over here, you quickly adapt to
whatever. The cost savings is substantial too. Camping runs you $7-$10 USD
a night, whereas a dorm, if available, is $25USD+.
So back to Zim (Zimbabwe). You all are probably at least a little bit aware
of the turmoil that country has been in for the last several years.
Recently it made some list as an official "failed state" in Africa. While
the government might still be in shambles, and they have yet to reestablish
a currency (there is no longer a Zimbabwe dollar that is worth anything -
only USD, South African Rand and sometimes Botswanan Pula are accepted), the
air of the place is one of perseverance and hope. The people aren't waiting
for the government to fix things; they are starting to fix things
themselves. There are still very few jobs, but those in them work very hard
and take a great deal of pride in their work, even if it is menial. Those
who aren't working are still trying to support themselves by catering to the
slowly rebounding tourist population, but not in as horribly harassing way
as their Zambian neighbors do. I also had the pleasure of exploring the
township where most of the locals live - and nearly every house had a small
garden filling their yards - they're taking care of themselves however they
can. Most of the houses were very well kept - extremely poor mind you - but
still with obvious pride.
The first Zimbabwean I spent any real time with was Thomas. I had set out
in search of a way to mend my tent pole, either with duct tape or a metal
tube. Thomas was one of many standing out on the street all too eager to
sell you a trinket or help you book an activity. He walked me to a camping
store, despite my assuring him that I could find it alone (I get sketched
out by these types of guys). The camping store didn't have anything, but
they recommended another shop. Thomas again walked me. This started a LONG
series of no-luck, recommendation, another shop as we walked further from
the main tourist area into the township. As we walked, we of course talked
and I grew more at ease with him. The 10th or so place had pvc of all
things, and I was able to get a small section. I learned that he earns
commission for people he brings in to book activities, so I promised to book
my bungie jump through him (which I did). Never did he ask me for money and
never did I feel unsafe. (ps - my tent pole ended up working alright for
the trip, but new ones will most likely need to be purchased for my next
outing)
The next day I met Julius. He was a bus boy/server at a (surprisingly good)
pizza place. Julius, like many we met, marched right up and struck up a
real conversation with me. After a while, I asked if he would be there
tomorrow, but he was working a different shift so he could attend a gospel
concert in the afternoon. I asked if visitors were welcome, and if I could
join him. He was thrilled and said I could also meet his family. The girls
weren't as interested in going, so I left them with the assurance that I'd
be back by sundown. He told me we would first go to his house, to see if
any of his family could join us (mind you, my caution bells are going off
loudly, but I had a good feeling). At his house, I met his wife and 2
daughters - one 5 months, the other 8 years. The 5 month old's name,
Tofara, means 'brings great joy'. And oh was she a cutie! No one else was
joining us, so off we went. Then I did start to get a little nervous
because we were going higher up into the township, not back to the main road
where I thought the concert was supposed to be. He said we were taking a
shortcut, and sure enough we popped out onto the main road soon enough.
After quite a long walk in the blistering sun, we arrived at a primary
school and could hear the music playing. This wasn't a church service, but
rather an outdoor music festival! (The music was gospel - but it was way
more pop than anything, just with lyrics about God (in Shona - a principal
language in Zim). Admission was USD$3 for adults and $1 for kids. Julius
paid my way (though I immediately paid him back). There must have been 1000
people there! (I saw one other white person the whole time). Everyone was
singing, dancing, laughing, playing, eating ice cream, etc. It was amazing
to see that that many people could afford to be there, and how good of a
time all were having.
I was kind of having a tough time with the sun. I had put on sunscreen but
could feel myself just sizzling. So we sat in the shade for a good long
while with some little ones that Julius was somehow related to. We talked
and talked...about his life, the hard times, and just whatever really. He
invited me to dinner, but I was very worried that they would serve more food
than they could, and I didn't want to worry the girls when I wasn't back by
sundown. He then suggested I come just for a quick bite of kovo, a local
leafy green that is growing in most of the gardens I had asked about. So
back we went to his house, where more of the family had gathered. His wife
picked some kovo from the garden, and then invited me in to see how she made
it. Julius, his wife, and 2 girls live completely in a single room, about
8'x10', with a hotplate, full-size bed, cupboard for dishes, small tv and
dvd player, and armoire for clothes. They share the very small 3 bedroom
house with 11 other people - 15 total. The toilet and shower are outside,
though the shower has stopped working. The kovo was pan fried with oil and
(too much) salt, but boy it was good!
As a side note, I've continued my sort of joking/sort of serious inquiry
into getting a Zimbabwean baby girl. I told Julius I had had a day dream
where during my travels I came across a woman who had just given birth to a
little girl but couldn't care for her, so she gave her to me. I said I
would take her home where she could be fed, clothed, educated and loved
dearly, and that I would often bring her back to Zim so she could know her
roots. Julius was quite fond of the idea, saying that so many babies can't
be cared for properly here. Much later on when we were back at his house he
told me that most babies are breast fed for two years, but that after two
years I could take Tofie (Tofara). I wasn't sure if he was serious or not.
His wife seemed to be in agreement.
Soon it was time for me to go, and Julius walked me back to town. I gave
him my contact information, though he has not way to contact me. He doesn't
have a cell phone, so the only way I can contact him is if I go back through
Victoria Falls. By this point, I'd so fallen in love with the place that I
axed my December plans of travelling through Zambia to Malawi to get to
Mozambique. Nope, I'm going through the heart of Zim. So maybe I will see
Julius again - I will certainly try very hard to look for him.
Oy vey this is a long post. But there's more! That Sunday evening back at
the camp, the girls had met a young Zimbabwean woman, Irvy, who is currently
teaching in Botswana. We had dinner with her, and then I went back to her
room where she and I had a veryyyy long talk - a few hours. Just two girls
chatting really, but it was an instant connection. I suspect I will be
friends with Irvy for a very long time. The next day she travelled with us
into Botswana, and before we parted she gave me one of those popular plastic
bracelet thingys that was for Breast Cancer Awareness in Botswana - "to
remember her."
In other Zimbabwean news...I did jump off the bridge. I was talked out of
the Bungie Jump since I've done so many of those and into the bridge swing -
rather than a bungie, you jump off with just a rope, and then get more time
to swing around at the bottom. There are photos, and videos. It was
thrilling - 83 metre (249ft) freefall - but I prefer diving to jumping, so
if there's a next time, it'll definitely be a headfirst affair.
And last, Victoria Falls is truly magical. I've seen my fair share of
waterfalls, but this place is in a class to itself. It's very difficult to
put to words, so I will try to post photos as soon as I can.
I'll have to do a separate post about the rest of the trip - obviously - Zim
was the highlight.
I also have lots of personal emails to answer - bear with me - I'm getting
to em! :-)
