Language Lessons & Adventurous Cuisines

Wow, so much has happened and it’s only been a few days. I last left off on Wednesday, June 3. We began language lessons that evening. The majority of the group (~ 19 summer volunteers) are heading to the South, so they are learning Afrikaans; they had one teacher. 4 others are up in the North with me who need to learn a tribal language called Rukwangali; they had one tutor. I’m the only one that will be living with the Hambukushu people, so I’m learning Thimbukushu with my very own tutor! Angie is 26 and a lawyer by trade. She grew up around Rundu (the “big town” that I’m 2 hours away from). We dove into Thimbukushu and I love it! Quick lesson for you (just sound out the letters, it’s written as it sounds):

“Hi. / How are you?” – Ngepi
“Fine / Good” – Thiwana
“Thank you” – Ndangi
“Forgive me” – Nithiyererepo
“Beer” - Bira
(And very important for me….)
“I get sick when I drink milk.” – Ame tjutju nge kunwa mahwe.

There are also a few “click” sounds in the language! I’m going to have a tough time describing them, but one easy one is a simple ‘cluck’ where your tongue goes to the back of your mouth from top to bottom. This is a way to express displeasure. J I’ve learned a few other click words that include a sassy way to say No, “to kiss” (which Matt will appreciate), and more.

On Thursday the interesting activity of the day was visiting the New Start Voluntary HIV Testing Centre. It’s estimated that between 20% and 25% of the Namibian population is living with HIV. Namibia uses some of the most advanced and accurate testing technology in the world. It requires a single pinprick of blood and delivers accurate results in 15 minutes. A person can walk into the clinic, give an anonymous name, receive pre-test counseling, the test, and results counseling in under an hour. If they test positive, they are referred to a local hospital where they are started on ARVs for a nominal fee of $4NAM (about 50 cents). In the city and other well populated areas, it seems as if attitudes and beliefs about HIV are changing for the better. However, in the more rural areas there are still many misconceptions about the disease; transmission is frighteningly high. Married women are the fastest growing population testing positive, primarily due to their husbands having extramarital unprotected sex. The whole topic is difficult to swallow, and I’ve only just gotten a theoretical account, but it’s very good to see action being taken and progress being made, albeit slowly.

Thursday evening we went for dinner at a traditional Herero restaurant, which wasn’t so much a restaurant but rather a woman’s backyard. The Herero people are known for ranching, and women who dress traditionally where fabric head coverings shaped like horns. Meat was on the menu, like every menu so far. But most interesting were the “smileys” or goat heads. After the drinks started flowing, a handful of us, under the direction of our Namibian friends, started trying the delicacies. My first taste was of the tongue, which was really very good. It was kind of tough and chewy, but had a great flavour. I also had a bite of intestine (naturally that wasn’t from the head). That was just kind of fatty. Last, but definitely not least came the eyes. I wasn’t first to go, in fact I think I got the last bite (3rd westerner to try). One of my roommates, Cara, had half of one (they were quite large) and I had the other half. It was chewy, slimy, and one part seemed a little gritty to me. About half way through chewing my stomach turned slightly and I had to focus on getting it down. A little later on I could’ve sworn I was burping goat eye ball. But hey, when in Namibia…

Friday was also quite exciting because at long last I got a cell phone! My number is 264-81-445-9652. I can receive text messages and phone calls for FREE!! So get your skype accounts set up! Remember I’m +8 hours from the west coast (+6 from central). My phone also acts as a modem so I am able to get online whenever I want. However, I pay by data-down so please please please do not send me email with big attachments!

Friday evening we were entertained with a private Setswana (pronounced Setsvana) group dance performance. The Setswana people are primarily from Botswana (before the borders were drawn). WOW WOW WOW. These people were absolutely amazing. They kept the beat by clapping and stomping their feet. They had maraca sounding anklets on to add some spice. They sang a capella. We had no idea what they were saying, but they acted out the songs, and as best I can tell they were mostly about men trying to impress the women and the women playing hard to get. I kept tearing up, and for a while I didn’t know why, but it dawned on me that it was hitting me that I was truly in Africa and beginning all that I’d been dreaming about for ages.

My first phone call from home was also on Friday. Matt found a $5 for 1 hour phone deal. YAY! He’s supposed to be sending me the info so I can pass it on to those that want to call.

This is getting a bit long so I’m going to try and wrap it up……Last night we had a “braii” or barbeque. We were celebrating the end of the summer volunteers’ orientation. We had some local musical talent come in to perform as the field director’s boyfriend is “Black Door”, and up and coming artist in Namibia. I’d describe the music as African hip-hop and pop. Presumably the best beat boxer in Namibia also made an appearance. Wow. I was able to contribute to the party with a fire spinning show. That went over quite well as you can imagine, with Black Door asking my friend, “do all Americans do that?” :-)

The summer kids leave tomorrow; 5 of us stay behind for more training specific to our subject teaching classes and our posts in the North. We’re here until Thursday.

All in all I’m having a brilliant time….but I think you probably already figured that out.