Black and White

So as my time here draws to a close, I find myself waxing a bit
philosophical. I've had tangible observations within myself around the
notion of black and white, so I thought I'd share.

If candid discussion of race makes you uncomfortable, stop reading.

Over my years, I can't say I've really been around that many black people.
From first grade through high school, I lived in a town in South Texas that
was oh, 95% or so Hispanic. There, sometimes, I felt like the minority, but
most of the time it didn't seem to matter so much.

In college I did calculus with Alvin, my first black friend. Alvin was
brilliant, and damn fine. (I really wish I could find you, Alvin.) At my
first dot-com job I had a black colleague who I worked closely with and
deeply respected. Presently, I've got one close black friend (hi Jay!), but
that's it. It just seems like the circles don't mix very much, ya know?
Not on purpose; it's just the way it is.

Anyway, leading up to coming here, I didn't give much thought to
black/white. It just sort of slipped my mind. But then I got here, and the
first night hanging out in the hostel during orientation, I thought to
myself, embarrassingly, "oh my gosh, there are so many black people here."
(and there were only a few!) When I got up to Kavango and to my school,
that thought was more pronounced. It wasn't an icky feeling...it's hard to
explain...it was just at the forefront of my thinking.

After, oh, I don't know, maybe 3 or so months, one day it hit me - I didn't
see "black people" anymore, I just saw people. And, interestingly, I'd be
more surprised when I saw more than two white people together.

Now here's where it gets interesting. Over the years I came to understand
that it was ok for black people to refer to themselves as black or other
terms of their choosing implying race. But it was decidedly NOT ok for
white people to refer to black people as such. I didn't get that at all.
But wouldn't ya know, I feel the EXACT SAME WAY now. I reference my race to
other people from time to time here (i.e. "all the white people are going to
rundu for a party"), but boy it irks me when I hear people refer to me as
Mukuwa ("white person" in Thimbukushu). ESPECIALLY people who know my name
and who do it right in front of me. OH MY GOD. Last term a staff member
came into the office asking for something, and another teacher said in
Thimbukushu, ask the mukuwa. At the parents' meeting the other day, I was
asked to loan out all my pencils for voting. And the principal said
something along the lines of 'please return the mukuwa's pencils'. Why does
this get my blood rushing, but I can make jokes about how my white nose
turns bright red in the sun? I kinda get the parents' meeting, but I still
find it intolerable amongst my "colleagues."

I recently read an article about race, and how people identify with race
even before gender. We don't say "a man who is black", we say "black man".
But, in Spanish the adjective comes after the noun, "hombre negro", so I
wonder, is it based on language? I kinda doubt it, but it does bring up an
interesting question. Anyway, race is obviously important descriptor. But
again, why should it bother me (or anyone?) I don't have the answer. All I
know is that it does.

I wonder what it's going to be like going home... My guess is that I'll be
much the same as I was, but should I ever find myself in a room with more
than a few "black people", I probably won't notice as much as I would've
before.

Sweat

I have never seen so much sweat in my life...both my sweat and everyone
else's. If I sit for more than about a half hour, sweat soaks through my
skirt. Everyone else seems to have beads of sweat dripping off their faces
and a sheen covering all visible parts of their bodies (thankfully I only
get to that point when it's stupidly stupid hot). My sweat does
occasionally splash on the floor from my legs though, doh! Worse, my
learners are getting nose bleeds in class. I think it must be the heat as
well. My, er, nose detritus is also bloody, but not gushing out of me thank
goodness.

It's hard to estimate temperature here. I'm guessing 105 in the shade and
110 in the sun. My mom reminded me about heat index too...no idea what it
would be factoring that in. I'm really tempted to try and fry and egg
outside.

The last two days I've been getting muscle aches and occasionally feel like
throwing up randomly. At first I was worried I was coming down with
something, or god forbid, malaria again. But the good ole lonely planet
health guide says those are common symptoms of over-heating. I'm losing
more salt than I can take in, so my muscles cramp. (It didn't explain the
nausea, just said you get it.) I'm drinking a TON of water, and thanks to
mom, some is flavored with crystal lite. But I rarely have to pee. I know
I know, "piss clear" - I'M TRYING!!!

I also try to take a cold shower everyday, but the water isn't cold anymore.
It's luke warm.

I've travelled to stupidly hot places before, near the equator hot, but
what's different there is you at least always have the sea breeze. Here,
boy oh boy, it's a whole different enchilada (likely cooked outside!!)

Book Report

A whole lotta reading has been going on over here. I figured I'd wax
'critic' for y'all if anyone is looking for their next book. (If I don't
have the author's name it's because it was a physical book, not on my
kindle, and I don't have it anymore.)

A note on the Kindle - Holy Moly this thing has been a lifesaver!! If you
are EVER doing any sort of extended stint abroad, GET ONE!! I'm still a
little bummed I don't have the smaller thinner one (I have v1.0), but oh
well. For those of you that think you'll miss the feel of regular books, I
can most assuredly tell you you won't miss carrying said books. Not being
able to trade with friends kinda sucks, but since you can put a gazillion
books on there you don't necessarily *need* to share (but it still sucks).
Don't worry about theft..in 2nd and 3rd world countries no one has a clue
what it is. Battery life is great; wish it charged via USB. Mine doesn't.
Love that I can read outside; don't like having to shine my flashlight on it
to read at night.

----Book Report----

Listed in "Star" Order: ***** = Best, * = Worst (though not ranked amongst
similar stars)

BOOKS COMPLETED (17)

***** Water for Elephants - Sara Gruen --> A delightful story and easy
read, Water is about an old man reflecting back on his youth when he joined
the circus. It has a charming plot and engaging characters. Full
recommendation to all.

***** Three Cups of Tea - Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin --> I've
already put up a plug on this book on the blog; it is fantastic. I admit it
goes a bit squirrelly at the end, but the accomplishments detailed are
nothing short of moving and inspirational. If you want to purchase, buy at
www.threecupsoftea.com , 7% of purchases goes toward the schools.

***** Scribbling the Cat - Alexandra Fuller --> This book is many things
despite being relatively short (only 200 pages or so if I remember). It's
travel writing, history and a solo women's challenges in the world. I loved
it. It may not be suuuper engaging to everyone, but if you're a woman who
has been in tricky places overseas, or if you have any interest in southern
African countries, read it.

**** Desperate Passage: The Donner Party's Perilous Journey West - Ethan
Rarick --> Having lived in Northern California for 10 years now and gone to
Tahoe countless times, you'd think I'd know more about the Donner Party. I
didn't, hence the purchase. The title says it all - the book covers their
entire journey, not just the sensationalized cannibalism stuff. I learned a
ton about that period in time, and the story of survival and loss is
incredible. It isn't for the faint of heart, but I definitely recommend it
to anyone who has ever wondered about them as you drive over Donner Pass.

**** The Devil in the White City - Erik Larson --> This book got a lot of
hype a few years back. I can see why, mostly. It's 2 stories in one: all
about the World's Fair in Chicago, and about one of America's first serial
killers who is doing his business around the city at that time. The serial
killer part sort of didn't do much for me. It was fascinating how the guy
went undetected for so long, but other than that it was kind of bleh. The
World's Fair part was super interesting. It contained all sorts of
interesting facts about that time and how it really had a hand in shaping
America. Parts of it were sluggish, but the good stuff made up for it.

**** Middlesex - Jeffrey Eugenides --> I confess I'm only half way through
this book, but I'm reading it voraciously and by the time some of you read
this post, I'll be finished. Another book that has gotten a lot of critical
acclaim, Middlesex has a very different style to it that I'm enjoying. The
story is of a hermaphrodite, but it's a whole lot more than that. Book 1 is
a little slow, but it's worth getting through.

*** The Dante Club: A Novel - Matthew Pearl --> This book reminded me of
the movie Seven. It's not based on true events, but it sort of reads like
it is. Set in Boston, it's about the great American writers (Holmes,
Longfellow, Lowell, etc.) who are working on a Dante translation and end up
trying to solve murders happening around the city that are modeled after
Dante's descriptions. I actually started and quit the book twice, but after
I finally got into it a bit, it stuck.

*** Stiff, The Curious Lives of Human Cadavers - Mary Roach --> Very
interesting book, but a little slow from time to time. Plus her sense of
humour is a bit put-on. However, you sure do learn a lot! If it's up your
alley, you'd like.

*** The Accountant's Story: Inside the Violent World of the Medellin Cartel
- Roberto Escobar --> Man, I could not put this book down!! ...For the
first half. The second half got repetitive and whiney....so I can't give 4
stars. But boy oh boy was it ever FASCINATING!! If you liked the movie
Blow, you'll LOVE this (at least the first half).

*** The Last Season - ? --> I read this book in 24 hours (mostly because I
was on a bus); it was pretty good, though I realize not everyone's cup of
tea. It's the story of a back woods park ranger in California who
disappeared. The story reads like an in-depth newspaper article, which is a
style I particularly enjoy. If you see it on the used book store shelf,
pick it up. If not, probably wouldn't tell you to spend the $15, unless
you're into mountaineering and/or park rangers (who are incredible folks,
btw).

*** Stalking the Wild Dik Dik - ? --> The story of a chick who travels from
Cape Town to Cairo. Read this one in about 8 hours (again, on the road).
It's made the rounds amongst volunteers and we all agree: if we'd read it
before coming to Africa we probably would've liked it more. This means, you
will probably enjoy it. The stories are mostly good; the writing is so-so.
It's a very very easy and quick read.

**1/2 The Surgeons - Charles R. Morris --> Investigative writing on Heart
Surgeons and Surgeries at Columbia-Presbyterian in New York. I realize this
wouldn't be on many peoples' lists, but if you're at all curious, I did like
it. There were parts I sort of glazed over, but I'd say I read and enjoyed
3/4 of it.

* Twilight Series, Books 1-4 - Stephanie Meyer --> The ONLY reason I read
these was because they were all very long (i.e. guaranteed time waster) and
I wanted to not be hypocritical when I bashed them. Let me preface by
saying I LOVE the Harry Potter books. It's criminal that Twilight is
compared to Harry Potter. The story is mildly entertaining, yes, but the
writing is horrible, and the characters are a bunch of pathetic, whiny,
codependent saps. I wouldn't recommend these to anyone, least of all
teenage girls, the intended audience.

* The Persistence of Memory - ? --> Bleh, I don't even feel like writing a
review on this one. Didn't care for the writing style at all
(self-inflated, pedantic) but there was a time or two that I related to the
story. Part of it is set in Namibia. But if you haven't been to Namibia or
think you'll ever go, don't bother. Actually, just don't bother.

------

BOOKS STARTED, NOT COMPLETED (7) (Listed in order of Likely to Finish)

The Seashell on the Mountaintop - Alan Cutler --> I'll probably finish this
one. I stopped because Rachel handed me a physical copy of Middlesex that I
need to finish. It's about the father of modern geology who paved the way
for the field by suggesting (correct) scientific theories as to how, well,
seashells could be found on the tops of mountains. This back in the day
when the church ruled all and strictly believed the earth was only 6000
years old. Where I'm at, he's just published his theory, and I think about
to have a can of whoopass opened up on him.

The World Without Us - Alan Weisman --> I might finish this one too; the
later chapters look more interesting than where I'm at. The premise is we
(humans) all vanish from the face of the earth in an instant, so what
happens to all we leave behind (buildings, houses, roads, etc. -
everything)? I don't have much to say yet on my personal thoughts on the
book.

Guns, Germs, and Steel - Jared Diamond --> I started reading this before I
came and had trouble concentrating. I was pretty distracted then though. I
will definitely pick this up again at some point in the near future.

The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle
of Wine - Benjamin Wallace --> Only luke warm on this one...kind of doubt
that I'll finish. What I've read has been mildly interesting, but not
enough to keep going. If you're a wine aficionado though, you'll probably
love it.

Sailing to the Reefs - Bernard Moitessier --> Moitessier is a bit of an
acquired taste. "The Long Way" was really good, but also kinda challenging
to read. Parts of this book are enjoyable so far, but some parts are
suuuper dry. I'll probably take it along the next time I'm out on the ocean
for a long stretch of time. Sailors will like; non-sailors will hate.

War and Peace - Leo Tolstoy --> I've seen this book in the hands of at
least 2 other volunteers, and I know it's on everyone's, "if I'm stuck on a
boat or in Africa" list. I started it. It wasn't bad; it just wasn't good.
There are lots and lots of characters, and it's hard to keep them straight.
I will read this book someday, dammit.

Wreck of the Medusa: Mutiny, Murder and Survival on the High Seas -
Alexander McKee --> ACK, terrible!! Old English style writing, WAY TOO
HEAVY on the sailing talk (and I'm a sailor!) Nothing good to say about
this one.

-----------

Wow, I can't believe I've read this much. I've been here for 5.5 months,
that's 22 weeks. With 17 books finished and headway into a few others, I'm
averaging about a book a week still. My goodness.

If you're still with me this far in the post, I am going to buy a few more
books for my kindle before I take off travelling. Got any suggestions?
Email me. Criteria: Long-Very Long! Hard to put down!

Thank you William Adams!!

The 2 packages have arrived and my "goodies" box has overflowed to become a
whole goodies area!

The pencils are just in time to give to every one of my learners so that
they can write their final exams.

The goofy troll topped pens are a hoot! I can't wait to see the expression
on their faces when I show them.

The pencil sharpeners are f a b u l o u s!

The book bags are going to replace an awful lot of plastic grocery bags :-)

I could go on and on. Thank you, "learners" of William Adams for your
generosity, to the teachers and principal who facilitated the shipment, and
of course to my beloved mother for everything.

P.S. - I'm talking to another teacher here about continuing my rewards
program with these very supplies. Your efforts will continue well into next
year!

Namibian "Sense"

So the final exam schedule came out today. Remember how I said it was
completely unexpected that Math was moved to the very end of the schedule?
Here's what happened: Not considering elections, mathematics was supposed
to fall on November 27. Because that's the first day of National Elections,
rather than just shifting it forward to the following Monday, they plucked
it up and moved it to the end. Makes sense... :-(

Alas, there has been a change.

Mathematics Paper 2 has been scheduled for Tuesday, November 17, a week from
tomorrow. Mathematics Paper 1 has been scheduled for Friday, December 4th.
Makes even more sense, right? :-(

However, I'm a pretty happy camper. Paper 2 is the longer of the two, with
85 marks. I'll get to grade it and will have a general sense of how my kids
did. Paper 2 is only 45 marks, which is easier to have other teachers
grade.

So I'm officially outta here November 27, maybe the 26th.

General Updates

Alex got a part-time job at the market as a stock boy! Congratulations
Alex!!!

This is my last full week of teaching. Exams start next Thursday, so next
week is likely going to be a wash. I was anxious to be done for the last
several weeks. Now I'm starting to get sad. I'm already envisioning
walking out to the road for the last time and turning left.

Went down to Ngepi Camp again this weekend, this time with Rachel. It was
heavenly - I felt like I was on vacation. The water was much warmer than
last time, so we spent a fair amount of time swimming in the hippo/crocodile
cage. Yay.

Someone else donated some money to me via WorldTeach recently that worked
out to about USD$77 (Sorry, they didn't tell me who it was and I don't have
access to the records...whoever it was, THANK YOU!) I thought long and hard
about what to do with the money. We're set calculator-wise, so I decided to
try to help out the science effort around here. With the generous help of
my assistant field director, Kelly Jo, we were able to order a proper
electricity teaching kit. It should be here in 4-6 weeks. Unfortunately it
was around USD$113, but I just paid the difference. Hopefully next year the
kids will get much more tangible lessons on electricity.

Not feeling super expressive today...must be the heat (reason for
everything!)

Constrassen

I have decided that I'm not leaving this school without teaching my classes
the ACTUAL words to the Namibian national anthem. The song is really pretty
simple, but it wasn't until I looked it up that I actually figured out what
many of the words were.

Here's the song:

Namibia land of the brave
Freedom fight we have won
Glory to their bravery
Whose blood waters our freedom

We give our love and loyalty
Together in unity
Contrasting beautiful Namibia
Namibia our country

Beloved land of savannahs
Hold high the banner of liberty
Namibia our country
Namibia motherland we love thee!

---

Here's pieces of what I would here:

..."Whose blood <muffle> our freedom"...

..."Constrassen beautiful"... (i.e. contrasting)

"Be love land sav<muffle>
<muffle muffle> of liberty"...

Friday was another wash of a day teaching actual lessons wise, so I decided
to start the Anthem Quest. I started with "Contrasting Beautiful". I wrote
it on the board, pronounced it, got them pronouncing it correctly, and
explained what it meant. Man, ALL EYES were fully engaged. They were SO
THANKFUL that someone was finally telling them the actual words!

By the time I get done with them, grades 8 and 9 will be leading the school,
including the teachers, who also don't have a clue what most of the words
are.

Interestingly, both classes I did this with asked about the American
national anthem. I said that it was much longer, with quite a few more
words. I sang the first verse for them; they humoured me and seemed
impressed :-)

Next week we will tackle the "savannahs" and the "blood waters"...