Quick post to say all is well. We left Swaziland on Saturday and are in Maputo, Mozambique waiting to pick up the truck, tomorrow. Then itºs off to Vilankulo ASAP!!
Much more detailed and interesting posts are being written (on paper!) to be entered into the blog soon.
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Saturday, December 12, 2009
It might be called South Africa, but it isn't Africa
I'm safe and sound in Pretoria now, but where I was overwhelmed in Bulawayo, I'm floored in Pretoria. I feel like I'm in LA. I don't like it. But I do like being able to leave my stuff at the hostel and feel relatively confident that it'll be there and untampered with when i get back.
Matt arrives tomorrow evening. We're going to take it easy for 2 days here while he deals with jetlag. Then we are planning to head to Swaziland.
My SA number is +27 79 056 7329
Back in Zimbabwe...
I finally ventured out on my own and took a bus from Bulawayo to Masvingo (pronounced Mashingo), where the ruins of Great Zimbabwe are. I camped for the last time in my little dinky tent. Gonna miss ya old fella. The ruins are pretty incredible. They were just as awe inspiring as the pyramids in Guatemala, I think the "experts" think these were erected waaaaayyyyy earlier than any anywhere else. I'll have to google that one, but I'm intrigued for sure.
The locals continued to be fantastically friendly, though English very quickly dropped out of the surrounding conversations. Everyone I talked to though was still fluent. I randomly met a handful of folks that wanted me to come stay with them.
My bus to South Africa situation was a less charming story, however. It was 6 HOURS late in leaving! Was supposed to go at 5pm, and we left after 11pm. The delay? Rain. Sigh. I had to sit at a petrol station and most of the time there was a torrential downpour outside. I felt like I was in the movie 'Romancing the Stone' watching the local buses pass through, people pouring off, scarfing down food, and pouring back on. Best, though, was the loading of these buses. I'm used to overcrowding and overpacking, but this exceeded even the worst I'd seen. At one point a man was standing on top of the bus (an old school bus) and the parcels were stacked on top a full half-body-length above his head! (And he was probably around 6ft.) They'd lumber off into the rainy night. I'm amazed there aren't more accidents.
When my bus finally came I got bumped from a window to an aisle, no reclining seats, no foot rest. But at least I got my own seat and luggage was safe below. At 3am we hit the Beit Bridge border. This commenced the absolute worst border experience I've ever had. We waited outside, in the pouring rain, for over 3 hours. Yep, we weren't through until around 6:15am. @#$#@ @#$^%$#% @#$@@@#%%^^!!!!!!!!
After that the driver had had enough of all the delays and we slammed straight through to Pretoria/Joburg without stopping. I got in around 2pm I think.
Now I'm twiddling my thumbs in relative comfort...waiting for the boy. Everyone still loves my braids and I'm getting stopped on the street asking where I had them done (and how much I paid.)
Matt arrives tomorrow evening. We're going to take it easy for 2 days here while he deals with jetlag. Then we are planning to head to Swaziland.
My SA number is +27 79 056 7329
Back in Zimbabwe...
I finally ventured out on my own and took a bus from Bulawayo to Masvingo (pronounced Mashingo), where the ruins of Great Zimbabwe are. I camped for the last time in my little dinky tent. Gonna miss ya old fella. The ruins are pretty incredible. They were just as awe inspiring as the pyramids in Guatemala, I think the "experts" think these were erected waaaaayyyyy earlier than any anywhere else. I'll have to google that one, but I'm intrigued for sure.
The locals continued to be fantastically friendly, though English very quickly dropped out of the surrounding conversations. Everyone I talked to though was still fluent. I randomly met a handful of folks that wanted me to come stay with them.
My bus to South Africa situation was a less charming story, however. It was 6 HOURS late in leaving! Was supposed to go at 5pm, and we left after 11pm. The delay? Rain. Sigh. I had to sit at a petrol station and most of the time there was a torrential downpour outside. I felt like I was in the movie 'Romancing the Stone' watching the local buses pass through, people pouring off, scarfing down food, and pouring back on. Best, though, was the loading of these buses. I'm used to overcrowding and overpacking, but this exceeded even the worst I'd seen. At one point a man was standing on top of the bus (an old school bus) and the parcels were stacked on top a full half-body-length above his head! (And he was probably around 6ft.) They'd lumber off into the rainy night. I'm amazed there aren't more accidents.
When my bus finally came I got bumped from a window to an aisle, no reclining seats, no foot rest. But at least I got my own seat and luggage was safe below. At 3am we hit the Beit Bridge border. This commenced the absolute worst border experience I've ever had. We waited outside, in the pouring rain, for over 3 hours. Yep, we weren't through until around 6:15am. @#$#@ @#$^%$#% @#$@@@#%%^^!!!!!!!!
After that the driver had had enough of all the delays and we slammed straight through to Pretoria/Joburg without stopping. I got in around 2pm I think.
Now I'm twiddling my thumbs in relative comfort...waiting for the boy. Everyone still loves my braids and I'm getting stopped on the street asking where I had them done (and how much I paid.)
Monday, December 7, 2009
Bulawayo, Zim Number Restored, No time for Malawi
Finally left Vic Falls last Saturday morning for Bulawayo; I caught a lift (thanks again Cesare) with a friendly fellow called Dinx (we bonded over the rhyming of our names - Dinx/Mynx).
In Byo, I was meeting up with Irvy, the Zimbabwean girl I met last time I was in vic falls who is a teacher in Botswana. She came all the way from Gabarone for one day/night just to see me. She's a special gal, and I'm honored to call her my friend.
I know this is starting to sound broken-recordish, but Zimbabweans are SO LOVELY!! Irvy was staying with a friend from high school and his aunt. They took me in like their own. She took off the next day (Sunday) and I had planned on sorting out a backpackers, but nope, I was informed that would be insulting. So they had me stay another night, and likely for as long as I would've wanted.
Cesare got to town today and now I'm staying with him and his mom. Tomorrow we will go to Matopas National Park. Then Wednesday I'm off on my own to Great Zimbabwe. I think Friday I will head for South Africa, spending Saturday night in Pretoria. Matt arrives Sunday.
I can't say enough at how bright, welcoming and engaging Zimbabweans are. They go on and on about the importance of an education, working hard for yourself, being kind and welcoming to all, etc. I truly love this place.
However, i have DEFINITELY turned into a village girl. Being in Bulawayo has me overwhelmed for sure. I nearly got hit by cars twice today. Therefore I'm not going on to Harare, and I'm kinda peein in my pants about being in South Africa. :-)
I got another phone today out of sheer necessity. My Zim number is restored: +263 91 400 8581
Sorry to be so scatter brained in my posts these days. It's a little different writing when the internet cafe clock is ticking down.
In Byo, I was meeting up with Irvy, the Zimbabwean girl I met last time I was in vic falls who is a teacher in Botswana. She came all the way from Gabarone for one day/night just to see me. She's a special gal, and I'm honored to call her my friend.
I know this is starting to sound broken-recordish, but Zimbabweans are SO LOVELY!! Irvy was staying with a friend from high school and his aunt. They took me in like their own. She took off the next day (Sunday) and I had planned on sorting out a backpackers, but nope, I was informed that would be insulting. So they had me stay another night, and likely for as long as I would've wanted.
Cesare got to town today and now I'm staying with him and his mom. Tomorrow we will go to Matopas National Park. Then Wednesday I'm off on my own to Great Zimbabwe. I think Friday I will head for South Africa, spending Saturday night in Pretoria. Matt arrives Sunday.
I can't say enough at how bright, welcoming and engaging Zimbabweans are. They go on and on about the importance of an education, working hard for yourself, being kind and welcoming to all, etc. I truly love this place.
However, i have DEFINITELY turned into a village girl. Being in Bulawayo has me overwhelmed for sure. I nearly got hit by cars twice today. Therefore I'm not going on to Harare, and I'm kinda peein in my pants about being in South Africa. :-)
I got another phone today out of sheer necessity. My Zim number is restored: +263 91 400 8581
Sorry to be so scatter brained in my posts these days. It's a little different writing when the internet cafe clock is ticking down.
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Vic Falls, local style
Camping on an island at the falls, literally ON the falls...as in walk to the edge and mind the water rushing past as it goes over.
...
A couple of swimming holes, you guessed it, RIGHT there on the edge.
...
Full moon.
...
No one else on the island (except for the thieving fisherman of course).
...
Professional photographer who thoroughly enjoyed shooting his first female subject in front of his favorite natural wonder.
...
Climbed about 1/8 of the way down the face of the falls - it's actually pretty easy. We could have gone all the way down but it was getting dark.
...
Tom reckons you can count on 1 or 2 hands how many people have been out to these places, ever.
Obviously I'm not my usual pedantic self. I'm kinda tired (and still bumming a little about my stuff). But it truly was a once in a lifetime experience. And besides, I know a few gentlemen that will gladly reimburse me for what was lost when they see my newly taken photos. ;-)
...
A couple of swimming holes, you guessed it, RIGHT there on the edge.
...
Full moon.
...
No one else on the island (except for the thieving fisherman of course).
...
Professional photographer who thoroughly enjoyed shooting his first female subject in front of his favorite natural wonder.
...
Climbed about 1/8 of the way down the face of the falls - it's actually pretty easy. We could have gone all the way down but it was getting dark.
...
Tom reckons you can count on 1 or 2 hands how many people have been out to these places, ever.
Obviously I'm not my usual pedantic self. I'm kinda tired (and still bumming a little about my stuff). But it truly was a once in a lifetime experience. And besides, I know a few gentlemen that will gladly reimburse me for what was lost when they see my newly taken photos. ;-)
TIA - No more Zim cell phone
Last night I went out to the island at the falls with that photographer and some of his buddies, as I mentioned. When we got there, he wanted to show us around and said all of our stuff would be fine in the boat (including his oodles of camera equipment) as no one ever goes out there.
Apparently, people do.
We got back and all of our stuff had been rifled through. Tom and I both lost our cell phones, cash and leathermans. Thankfully none of the camera equipment was taken, and my little camera was miraculously still there.
I'm not going to get another cell phone.
Apparently, people do.
We got back and all of our stuff had been rifled through. Tom and I both lost our cell phones, cash and leathermans. Thankfully none of the camera equipment was taken, and my little camera was miraculously still there.
I'm not going to get another cell phone.
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Ehem, Still in Vic Falls, surprise surprise
Yep, I can see why people get ‘stuck’ here. There’s so much to do, the people are lovely, the scenery is beautiful and the climate is manageable. Even Zimbabweans come here and end up staying.
Yesterday was all about the animals. I’ve been lucky enough to see lions and elephants in the wild, but I kinda wanted a closer look.
In the morning, I went for a “lion encounter”. I know, I know, cheese factor right? I wanted to see for myself. Here’s the program: get picked up and taken out to a reserve, learn some basic safety stuff, then head out with a few guides who bring out 2-4 lion “cubs” (mine were 16 months…pretty big freakin lions if you ask me) – they aren’t leashed or muzzled. You go for a little stroll with them through the bush, and those willing can come up and pet their rears while walking. After a while, we stop and the lions lay down on some rocks. One by one the guests come up behind them and give em a scratch and of course get photos taken. We walk back, have some breakfast, watch the video and head. Sounds manufactured and touristy yes? Well, frankly, it kind of is, however, there’s a cause, and a pretty serious one. Before this I had no idea that lions were becoming endangered. They’ve seen a huge drop in the population in recent years (70-80%!!) and on the whole, no one is really doing anything about it. So these guys are a part of www.LionAlert.org and there is a pretty plausible plan in place to help boost the wild population. I’m paraphrasing here, but from what I recall: Stage 1 is captive lions who are used to humans hang out and do these ‘encounter’ thingys, but they are also getting more used to being in the bush. Stage 2 sees them released into an enclosure with game they can hunt and human contact is limited. In Stage 3, competitive species are introduced (i.e. they have to start fending for themselves), and if there were only females, males are added to the mix (dating). There is zero human interaction at this point. In Stage 4, any cubs that are born are fully released into the wild after weening and all that. The thinking is, captive lions just can’t be turned loose; it doesn’t work except in the movie Born Free. But cubs born seemingly in the wild should do fine. Why do Stage 1 at all? It’s to raise awareness and funds to support the later stages. Acquiring the land and building the enclosures is super expensive. The whole program is just getting started, and they’ve had the idea to contact companies and organizations with lions in their logos (MGM, Detroit Lions, etc.) for support in a campaign called “Where is your pride?”. Clever, no? Anyway, worthy cause, alarming situation. Two thumbs up. Check out the website – www.lionalert.org
In the afternoon I did an elephant back safari. There’s less of a cause to talk about here so I won’t bore you with the details. I’ll just put up some pictures when I get home. I did get to scratch my elephants tongue…nobody else did…my elephant, Emily, just opened up her mouth and stuck out her tongue, I saw one of the guides doing it so I gave it a go. Weird!!
Today I'm heading out to an island at the falls with a photographer from the BBC. It's a full moon - he's been hired to get all kinds of footage of the falls! This is a private deal, no tourists. Once again I have Cesare to thank! (Ladies, he's free...)
Friday I’m going white water rafting on the Zambezi! Then Saturday morning I’m off to Bulawayo.
Yesterday was all about the animals. I’ve been lucky enough to see lions and elephants in the wild, but I kinda wanted a closer look.
In the morning, I went for a “lion encounter”. I know, I know, cheese factor right? I wanted to see for myself. Here’s the program: get picked up and taken out to a reserve, learn some basic safety stuff, then head out with a few guides who bring out 2-4 lion “cubs” (mine were 16 months…pretty big freakin lions if you ask me) – they aren’t leashed or muzzled. You go for a little stroll with them through the bush, and those willing can come up and pet their rears while walking. After a while, we stop and the lions lay down on some rocks. One by one the guests come up behind them and give em a scratch and of course get photos taken. We walk back, have some breakfast, watch the video and head. Sounds manufactured and touristy yes? Well, frankly, it kind of is, however, there’s a cause, and a pretty serious one. Before this I had no idea that lions were becoming endangered. They’ve seen a huge drop in the population in recent years (70-80%!!) and on the whole, no one is really doing anything about it. So these guys are a part of www.LionAlert.org and there is a pretty plausible plan in place to help boost the wild population. I’m paraphrasing here, but from what I recall: Stage 1 is captive lions who are used to humans hang out and do these ‘encounter’ thingys, but they are also getting more used to being in the bush. Stage 2 sees them released into an enclosure with game they can hunt and human contact is limited. In Stage 3, competitive species are introduced (i.e. they have to start fending for themselves), and if there were only females, males are added to the mix (dating). There is zero human interaction at this point. In Stage 4, any cubs that are born are fully released into the wild after weening and all that. The thinking is, captive lions just can’t be turned loose; it doesn’t work except in the movie Born Free. But cubs born seemingly in the wild should do fine. Why do Stage 1 at all? It’s to raise awareness and funds to support the later stages. Acquiring the land and building the enclosures is super expensive. The whole program is just getting started, and they’ve had the idea to contact companies and organizations with lions in their logos (MGM, Detroit Lions, etc.) for support in a campaign called “Where is your pride?”. Clever, no? Anyway, worthy cause, alarming situation. Two thumbs up. Check out the website – www.lionalert.org
In the afternoon I did an elephant back safari. There’s less of a cause to talk about here so I won’t bore you with the details. I’ll just put up some pictures when I get home. I did get to scratch my elephants tongue…nobody else did…my elephant, Emily, just opened up her mouth and stuck out her tongue, I saw one of the guides doing it so I gave it a go. Weird!!
Today I'm heading out to an island at the falls with a photographer from the BBC. It's a full moon - he's been hired to get all kinds of footage of the falls! This is a private deal, no tourists. Once again I have Cesare to thank! (Ladies, he's free...)
Friday I’m going white water rafting on the Zambezi! Then Saturday morning I’m off to Bulawayo.
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