Monday, March 29, 2010

On Sobriety

In a couple of days, it'll be 3 full months since I've had a drink (save for the accidental mix-up by my friend Dave between his vodka tonic and my tonic and lime resulting in a gulp and the sip of white wine I had when Cindy claimed it was the best white she'd ever had).

What brought on this decision? Last fall I finally came to the conclusion that sometimes I drink too much, and some of those times I end up doing or saying really stupid things that I have to then sheepishly apologize for. Though the "I was drunk" apology is completely true, I mean, I would never ever have done or said what I did sober, it's still a really lame one, don't you think? I mean, technically I made the decision to drink that much (though by that point my powers of reasoning are obviously altered), therefore I indirectly made the decision to proceed with the words or actions. Soooo, the next logical step was to stop drinking.

Alcohol is deeply ingrained in our society, period. I knew that going into this little experiment. And over these last few months, I realized just how true that statement is. ALCOHOL IS HOPELESSLY AND COMPLETELY INGRAINED IN OUR SOCIETY!!! It seems that if any two people are getting together for any purpose except driving, alcohol is involved. If I had a buck for every time I was offered a drink, sometimes repeatedly by the same person on the same occasion, I could buy a lotta booze right now! Take drinking out of the equation, and I'll be the first to say it, ya get bored!

I went out on one date when I was back in SF for those two months. Dinner was a little painful in that we were having really yummy food and he was having a big ole fat glass of rich red wine that I could smell from a mile away (oh ya, my sense of smell has dramatically increased sans booze), but I made it through unscathed. Afterwards though, sheesh, whatdoya do? Normally, duh, you go to a bar. I assured him I didn't mind going to a bar, so we did. But after *that* we ran into the same question...what do we do? Well, normally by then everyone would be pretty tipsy, so you'd likely go back to somebody's place and hook up. Poor guy, I knew that was what he wanted to do...I think he even said it...but me, nope, I was stone cold sober and there was no way I was hooking up with a guy who was moderately interesting, but I wasn't interested in. So he took me home, and I watched another episode of Lost and went to bed.

Going out with friends was easier - no awkwardness - but I'd get bored after a couple of hours when everyone else was just getting going. Plus, there's only so many diet cokes or tonics with lime that you can drink. Goodness, how is it we can drink so much more alcohol?

Going out with NEW people is awful. I don't get nervous or anything around new people, but I've learned that booze definitely helps lubricate the gears to make talking easier. Without it you tend to sit back and let the buzzed people talk louder and interrupt each other more often. After a while, you are barely cracking a smile when everyone else is laughing hysterically. Progressive belligerence is ...I wouldn't say entertaining to watch, it's actually sort of saddening, but it is interesting to observe. It's usually right around then that I'm trying to leave wherever I'm at. No bueno.

Explaining to people that I'm not drinking for the time being isn't much fun either. The 2 most common reactions are 1, they think you must be in AA or 2, they think that you have taken a high and mighty position and are somehow judging them for their own drinking. #1 is the one I sense most often from people, though no one ever says it explicitly. It's tough to defend yourself at this point ("oh but I'm not an alcoholic"...sure...right), so I never do. #2 is also tough to answer, but I try if I see a window: "oh but it doesn't bother me a bit if you guys are drinking, no worries" - and this is true. I guess the 3rd reaction is folks think you are some sort of a goodie two shoes. I have to laugh at this. And those of you who know me can join in for a chuckle as well. But there's no telling a stranger this, particularly when they're too drunk to be interested in anything I have to say.

Not drinking has been way easier than I thought it would be. I really thought I'd be jonesin, not all the time, but whenever in a social environment, and especially out at bars. But actually, save for getting bored early, I was quite happy to be sober. I was definitely happy to drive home (and offer rides to anyone else - yay!), and my most pleasant piece of this experiment was waking up clear-eyed every single morning. I can't begin to tell you how nice that is. I wasn't hangover city before, but there were the odd times where I paid the price for the night before, like we all do. And more often would have just a dull haziness that tells you you aren't 100%.

Not drinking has also helped my savings account, as that's what I'm living on currently. And theoretically my calorie-intake benefited as well, though I can't say I lost any weight.

Most importantly though, I haven't done or said a single thing that I regret these last 3 months, and I've learned that I don't *need* alcohol.

So what now? Well, after all of my capping on drinking you'd think I'd swear it off for good. But I'll be honest, having a glass of wine or beer now and then to celebrate an occasion or over a nice dinner with friends is something I don't want to give up. I had originally said 6 months for this experiment, but 3 is going to suffice, as I don't feel I will learn any more over the next 3 that I haven't already. So come April 1, I will have a nice chilled glass of white wine. But following that, my drinking will be measured. Incidentally, I'm on some medication now that isn't safe to mix with much alcohol. So for the next few months, I'm limited to the occasional drink anyway. After that, I've decided that no occasion ever deserves more than 3 drinks, and now that I've completed my little experiment, I know I have the strength of will to adhere to this little personal policy.

Book Report

Ordered from Most Recent:

10. Alice's Adventures in Wonderland by Lewis Carroll
The movie was better, way better.  I think that about sums it up.  I may take a lot of flack from this from literary people, but I just couldn't tolerate the nonsense in this story.  It'd be difficult to read to a child because there's too much so far outside of the realm of reality to imagine, unless you read very short bits at a time.  And as an adult, I kept looking for the religious undertones.  I suppose they were there from time to time, but ultimately I didn't care any longer.  Thankfully it was short; if it had been longer I may not have finished it.

9. Uncle Tom's Cabin by Harriot Beecher Stowe
It took me a while to get through this book.  It's probably around 600 pages or so (doesn't say on the kindle).  It's a challenge to get through the colloquial dialect of the slaves, and the story slows down at times and feels tedious, particularly the Christian preachier parts.  After I started, I realized that it might be page after page of horridly cruel atrocities, and I wasn't too keen on that, especially after Haunted.  Thankfully, though, it wasn't.  Stowe tells multiple stories at once.  All are heartbreaking, but some are kind and gentle, and even triumphant in the end.  I was drawn into every tale, and cared very much of the fates of its characters.  

One thing I appreciated is how she didn't just hammer on the South.  She regularly makes the point that Northerners were just as guilty for perpetuating slavery as Southerners, and in some respects, possibly more so.  Nonparticipation doesn't equal innocence; apathy in the face of injustice is also a crime.  The parallels to today's human rights' movements are obvious.

Uncle Tom's Cabin takes a bit of commitment, but it's a worthy read, showing how we as humans can be so horrible or so wondeful and amazing to and for each other.  (Kindle - Free)

8. Haunted by Chuck Palahniuk
I picked up Haunted in the hostel in Panama City, only because it was by the same author who wrote Fight Club.  If I'd thought about it a little bit more, I would've asked myself if Fight Club would've been a *book* I'd enjoy reading...probably not.

From the back cover: "Haunted is a novel made up of 23 horrifying, hilarious, and stomach-churning stories.  They're told by people who have answered an ad for a writers' retreat and unwittingly joined a 'Survivor'-like scenario where the host withholds heat, power, and food...."

The stories and the plotline with the writers are alternating chapters, and all of it is just plain disturbing.  There's a lot of social commentary in there, some obvious, and much more not so I'm sure.  I mean it took me a few times watching Fight Club before I felt like I got it all, but probably more I'll never see. 

I can't say I'd recommend this book, unless you know you like reading weird, f-ed up s#$%. :-)  (Unknown Kindle Status, 411 pages)

7. Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts
Shantaram is nearly 1000 pages long, and in Curacao I watched a 17 year old boy read 3/4 of it in the course of a week.  I had to have it.  Thank you Amazon for the wireless delivery to my Kindle. 

Without giving anything away, the story goes like this:  In 1978, the author is thrown in prison in Australia for multiple robberies to support a heroin habit.  He escapes 2 years later and after some time finds himself in Bombay, India.  He takes to the place and the people and starts to get immersed in the culture.  He establishes a free medical clinic for slum-dwellers, works as a counterfeiter, smuggler, gunrunner and street soldier for the Bombay mafia.  Eventually, he's captured again in Germany and serves out the remainder of his initial sentence there and back in Australia.  While he's imprisoned, he begins Shantaram, only to have prison guards take it from him not once, but twice!  It took 13 years to complete.  (He's now out and writing full-time in Bombay.)

Sounds like a story hey!?  It is - a true EPIC, let me tell you.  I couldn't put it down.  SO much happens with this guy.  His writing style is superb to boot, so what you have is a positively engrossing tale told by a masterful storyteller.  And, this is the first book about India I've read (there have been several) that has actually made me WANT to go to India.  He doesn't shy away from the filth, or even *try* to romanticize it, but you end up embracing it as he does.  He makes you see that it is the whole of India (Bombay) that makes her what she is, and without each piece, passionately vibrant and utterly disgusting alike, she wouldn't be the same.

I regularly laughed out loud, I shrieked "NO!" several times, and got choked up a little once or twice.  One of the critics quotes says:  "Shantaram is, quite simply, the 1001 Arabian Nights of the new century." and another author likened Roberts to Melville.  I know it's hard to jump into a 1000 page novel, especially if you're just reading it on your daily commute, but go for it, you won't be disappointed. (Kindle - $10)

6. The Time Machine by H.G. Wells

I had high hopes for this book, but in my opinion it fell flat. The Time Machine is a fairly short book centered primarily around one trip into the future by the intrepid Time Traveller. He comes back and tells of his adventures there to his colleagues. The writing was readable, for the most part, but the story was just kind of bleh. I didn’t particularly care about the hero, I just wanted him to get on with it. I tried to surmise some greater meaning from what he finds in the future - how it seemed like strength and creativity had disappeared once all of the problems of the world had been sorted out. But again, I wasn’t inspired to dig deeper into the opportunities for literary criticism.

5. A Dirty Job by Christopher Moore
A Dirty Job, set in San Francisco (bonus!), follows the Beta Male Charlie Asher as he inherits and becomes accustomed to his new role as a “Death Merchant” – a person responsible for collecting and redistributing souls. The souls are in the form of soul objects – inanimate objects that people’s souls move into when they die, and out of when a new appropriate body comes along. The Forces of Darkness are stewing, however, and Charlie soon finds himself instrumental in a classic good versus evil showdown. Moore's humour is so quick, sarcastic, biting and witty; all of his characters are clever and hilarious, it’s tempting to think he has a whole team of writers at his side.
It's a very quick read that'll have you chuckling out loud with nearly every page. Highly recommended!


4. The Jungle by Upton Sinclair
The Jungle should be on every American’s reading list, and on everyone’s from elsewhere that thinks America was born with a silver spoon in its mouth.  (I realize I’ll take some flak for the latter part of that statement; I’ll explain in a bit.) 

Set in the early 1900’s, The Jungle tells the story of a Lithuanian immigrant and his family in the United States, primarily in the stockyards of Chicago.  If memory serves, this book was one of the main catalysts for the creation of the USDA, as Sinclair’s brutally honest account of the meat packing industry is more than enough to make your stomach churn.  I believe it also had some effect on labor regulations, as again, his account of what workers endured is heart wrenching. 

Several notions struck me as I was enjoying this book.  The first and most prominent is that hundreds of thousands if not millions of people killed themselves toiling at manual labour jobs building up America.  I’d like to think that some of those family’s efforts paid off and they are living successfully today (though I realize that it’s usually only those that were on top to stay on top).  I couldn’t help but think about my time in Namibia.  There you have a new, developing country where, with a few exceptions of course, people just don’t want to work to build anything up.  They want to wait around for handouts as if it’s possible to reap all the fruits without all the labour.  America is where it is today because it’s people,  have been working their tooshies off for centuries.  (It’s also where it’s at from capitalist greed, lying, cheating and stealing too – I get that.)

Second, and probably the most disturbing notion, is that things are just as appalling today as they were then, though in craftier ways.  The book talks about how filthy and disgusting the meat packing plants were – that dead, diseased carcasses of animals not fit for consumption would get churned up and mixed among meat that was, that chemicals would be used to make inedible products taste like food so they could be sold, that workers injured on the job wouldn’t be tended to medically and left to their own nonexistent devices, etc.  Jebus, doesn’t all of this sound familiar!!??  All of this crap is STILL happening, though it’s happening in sneakier ways and under the guise of government approval.  Sure we have health agencies and regulations, labour laws, etc., but whenever a corporation can find a loophole that makes them more money at the expense of its employees or its consumers, it does.  In a lot of ways I think we are more despicable now than we were then.  Sigh, ok, my social commentary is over. 

This is a fantastic book.  It’s very well written, easy to read and gives you characters you really care about.  At the end, the soapbox Sinclair gets on about Socialism is somewhat tedious, but thought-provoking if you choose to entertain the ideas.  READ IT!!

3. The Picture of Dorian Gray by Oscar Wilde
My first “classic” to read on this trip, and the one that inspired me to load up my kindle with several more. I saw someone reading it on MUNI in San Francisco and realized I’d always wanted to read it and never had.

I won’t lie, there are sections that are positively mind-numbing, but the core of the story and the accompanying details are intriguing. To think that we wear not only our age but our transgressions on our face, and that somehow if we could remain innocent we would never grow old. I enjoyed how the story unfolded too, as I didn’t know the ins and outs of the tale.

Within a few months I’ll have a better idea of how this classic stacks up to others, but as of right now I’d recommend it to those who ever had an inkling to read it. (Kindle – free)

2. Gordon by Edith Templeton
I was more than a little surprised when I came across this book in a book exchange at the La Paz Yacht Club. There were lots of books on the shelves there; I don’t know what made me pick it up with its nondescript plain green cover, completely nondescript title, and a back cover that only gave praise for the author’s other works. The description in the jacket got me immediately, though. I’m paraphrasing here…”…she was disturbed that he had taken her within the hour that they had met…her complete submission to him was what she’d always longed for but didn’t realize…”. I think I may have even shut the book a bit and looked over my shoulder to see if anyone was there while I blushed.

I stashed it away and read it cover to cover over the course of my bus ride and 3 flights from La Paz to Curacao. It could have been steamier, for sure. It wasn’t Story of O, but I enjoyed it in the way I imagine men enjoy looking at a beautiful woman partially clothed rather than fully naked. Know whatahymean? (Unknown kindle status – doubt it.)

1. Dark Star Safari by Paul Theroux : Overland from Cairo to Capetown
I came across this book on the shelf of a Peace Corps Volunteer friend in Namibia; it’s apparently been very popular on the volunteer and backpacker circuit for a few years. I didn’t have the heart to start it while I was actually in Africa, however, or even when I was home. It was to be my first book to read on my next trip :-)

Paul is my hero – he travels the way I think travelling should be done, and if I had the balls (somewhat literally) I would. AND, I think he’s got the formula for travel writing down…a little history, a little comedy, a little pain and a lot of realism.

I found myself bored in a handful of sections though. I think the book could’ve been 50-100 pages shorter without losing anything. That notwithstanding, it’s a very good recent (~2003ish) look at Africa with all of its strife and charms. If you’ve travelled the continent at all or want to, check it out. (Sadly, at the time of writing it was not available as a Kindle edition. Eh, hem, Paul, you should know how important this is to travellers!)

-----------

The following is my "Book Report" from my time in Africa.

Listed in "Star" Order: ***** = Best, * = Worst (though not ranked amongst
similar stars)

BOOKS COMPLETED (17)

***** Water for Elephants - Sara Gruen --> A delightful story and easy
read, Water is about an old man reflecting back on his youth when he joined
the circus. It has a charming plot and engaging characters. Full
recommendation to all.

* Three Cups of Tea - Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin -->
UPDATE (Nov 2014): Do NOT buy this book. This guy is a lying, stealing scoundrel, as exposed in the recent "Three Cups of Deceit" by Jon Krakauer, who previously believed/donated in Greg's work. It's sad; Mortenson obviously garnered a ton of support, but it was based on lies and very little of what was promised has been delivered successfully.

Original review: I've already put up a plug on this book on the blog; it is fantastic. I admit it
goes a bit squirrelly at the end, but the accomplishments detailed are
nothing short of moving and inspirational. If you want to purchase, buy at
www.threecupsoftea.com , 7% of purchases goes toward the schools.

***** Scribbling the Cat - Alexandra Fuller --> This book is many things
despite being relatively short (only 200 pages or so if I remember). It's
travel writing, history and a solo women's challenges in the world. I loved
it. It may not be suuuper engaging to everyone, but if you're a woman who
has been in tricky places overseas, or if you have any interest in southern
African countries, read it.

**** Desperate Passage: The Donner Party's Perilous Journey West - Ethan
Rarick --> Having lived in Northern California for 10 years now and gone to
Tahoe countless times, you'd think I'd know more about the Donner Party. I
didn't, hence the purchase. The title says it all - the book covers their
entire journey, not just the sensationalized cannibalism stuff. I learned a
ton about that period in time, and the story of survival and loss is
incredible. It isn't for the faint of heart, but I definitely recommend it
to anyone who has ever wondered about them as you drive over Donner Pass.

**** The Devil in the White City - Erik Larson --> This book got a lot of
hype a few years back. I can see why, mostly. It's 2 stories in one: all
about the World's Fair in Chicago, and about one of America's first serial
killers who is doing his business around the city at that time. The serial
killer part sort of didn't do much for me. It was fascinating how the guy
went undetected for so long, but other than that it was kind of bleh. The
World's Fair part was super interesting. It contained all sorts of
interesting facts about that time and how it really had a hand in shaping
America. Parts of it were sluggish, but the good stuff made up for it.

**** Middlesex - Jeffrey Eugenides --> I confess I'm only half way through
this book, but I'm reading it voraciously and by the time some of you read
this post, I'll be finished. Another book that has gotten a lot of critical
acclaim, Middlesex has a very different style to it that I'm enjoying. The
story is of a hermaphrodite, but it's a whole lot more than that. Book 1 is
a little slow, but it's worth getting through.

*** The Dante Club: A Novel - Matthew Pearl --> This book reminded me of
the movie Seven. It's not based on true events, but it sort of reads like
it is. Set in Boston, it's about the great American writers (Holmes,
Longfellow, Lowell, etc.) who are working on a Dante translation and end up
trying to solve murders happening around the city that are modeled after
Dante's descriptions. I actually started and quit the book twice, but after
I finally got into it a bit, it stuck.

*** Stiff, The Curious Lives of Human Cadavers - Mary Roach --> Very
interesting book, but a little slow from time to time. Plus her sense of
humour is a bit put-on. However, you sure do learn a lot! If it's up your
alley, you'd like.

*** The Accountant's Story: Inside the Violent World of the Medellin Cartel
- Roberto Escobar --> Man, I could not put this book down!! ...For the
first half. The second half got repetitive and whiney....so I can't give 4
stars. But boy oh boy was it ever FASCINATING!! If you liked the movie
Blow, you'll LOVE this (at least the first half).

*** The Last Season - ? --> I read this book in 24 hours (mostly because I
was on a bus); it was pretty good, though I realize not everyone's cup of
tea. It's the story of a back woods park ranger in California who
disappeared. The story reads like an in-depth newspaper article, which is a
style I particularly enjoy. If you see it on the used book store shelf,
pick it up. If not, probably wouldn't tell you to spend the $15, unless
you're into mountaineering and/or park rangers (who are incredible folks,
btw).

*** Stalking the Wild Dik Dik - ? --> The story of a chick who travels from
Cape Town to Cairo. Read this one in about 8 hours (again, on the road).
It's made the rounds amongst volunteers and we all agree: if we'd read it
before coming to Africa we probably would've liked it more. This means, you
will probably enjoy it. The stories are mostly good; the writing is so-so.
It's a very very easy and quick read.

**1/2 The Surgeons - Charles R. Morris --> Investigative writing on Heart
Surgeons and Surgeries at Columbia-Presbyterian in New York. I realize this
wouldn't be on many peoples' lists, but if you're at all curious, I did like
it. There were parts I sort of glazed over, but I'd say I read and enjoyed
3/4 of it.

* Twilight Series, Books 1-4 - Stephanie Meyer --> The ONLY reason I read
these was because they were all very long (i.e. guaranteed time waster) and
I wanted to not be hypocritical when I bashed them. Let me preface by
saying I LOVE the Harry Potter books. It's criminal that Twilight is
compared to Harry Potter. The story is mildly entertaining, yes, but the
writing is horrible, and the characters are a bunch of pathetic, whiny,
codependent saps. I wouldn't recommend these to anyone, least of all
teenage girls, the intended audience.

* The Persistence of Memory - ? --> Bleh, I don't even feel like writing a
review on this one. Didn't care for the writing style at all
(self-inflated, pedantic) but there was a time or two that I related to the
story. Part of it is set in Namibia. But if you haven't been to Namibia or
think you'll ever go, don't bother. Actually, just don't bother.

------

BOOKS STARTED, NOT COMPLETED (7) (Listed in order of Likely to Finish)

The Seashell on the Mountaintop - Alan Cutler --> I'll probably finish this
one. I stopped because Rachel handed me a physical copy of Middlesex that I
need to finish. It's about the father of modern geology who paved the way
for the field by suggesting (correct) scientific theories as to how, well,
seashells could be found on the tops of mountains. This back in the day
when the church ruled all and strictly believed the earth was only 6000
years old. Where I'm at, he's just published his theory, and I think about
to have a can of whoopass opened up on him.

The World Without Us - Alan Weisman --> I might finish this one too; the
later chapters look more interesting than where I'm at. The premise is we
(humans) all vanish from the face of the earth in an instant, so what
happens to all we leave behind (buildings, houses, roads, etc. -
everything)? I don't have much to say yet on my personal thoughts on the
book.

Guns, Germs, and Steel - Jared Diamond --> I started reading this before I
came and had trouble concentrating. I was pretty distracted then though. I
will definitely pick this up again at some point in the near future.

The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle
of Wine - Benjamin Wallace --> Only luke warm on this one...kind of doubt
that I'll finish. What I've read has been mildly interesting, but not
enough to keep going. If you're a wine aficionado though, you'll probably
love it.

Sailing to the Reefs - Bernard Moitessier --> Moitessier is a bit of an
acquired taste. "The Long Way" was really good, but also kinda challenging
to read. Parts of this book are enjoyable so far, but some parts are
suuuper dry. I'll probably take it along the next time I'm out on the ocean
for a long stretch of time. Sailors will like; non-sailors will hate.

War and Peace - Leo Tolstoy --> I've seen this book in the hands of at
least 2 other volunteers, and I know it's on everyone's, "if I'm stuck on a
boat or in Africa" list. I started it. It wasn't bad; it just wasn't good.
There are lots and lots of characters, and it's hard to keep them straight.
I will read this book someday, dammit.

Wreck of the Medusa: Mutiny, Murder and Survival on the High Seas -
Alexander McKee --> ACK, terrible!! Old English style writing, WAY TOO
HEAVY on the sailing talk (and I'm a sailor!) Nothing good to say about
this one.

Update Update Update

We're still in Curacao and stuck here until Saturday at the very least. It was finally determined that a new brain (course computer) was needed for the autopilot, and we're now subject to the Fedex God's fancy. ETA: Friday. It's ok though because the weather window doesn't open up again until Friday evening.

Todd has settled down now that things are settled.

Melissa, Alex and I jumped ship a couple of days ago and took the bus into town to catch Alice in Wonderland 3D. WOW!!! The visuals were purely intoxicating! Goodnight I love Tim Burton and Johnny Depp!! After the movie, Alex went back and Melissa and I bopped around shopping for a little while. It just felt really good to be doing something on our own and away from the boat.

We're all looking forward to getting out of here, and quite keen on the idea of dropping in on Columbia to have a look-see :-) Don't worry; it's safe.

I finished my 3rd book since I left the states. Wondering where I should put my running book reviews so their accessible...Will figure it out and post when I can.

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Update Update

A different autopilot problem has presented itself, we're not even heading for Klein Curacao anytime soon.
If any hardcore sailors are reading this, I'm sure you're bitching about our gadget dependence. Fine. But I'm not the captain here.

The earliest we'll be out of here is next Friday - it's the next weather window, and it's a good one. Todd says if the autopilot is not up and running by then we will go anyway and hand-steer.

Mechanical/Electrical issues never put anyone in a good mood, but el capitan is not weathering this particular storm very well in my opinion. If the adage is correct that one's true colors come out under pressure, I'm not very thrilled with the paint job.

Friday, March 26, 2010

New Home: One World | Current Location: Curacao

My new home, s.v. (sailing vessel) One World, is a 50 some odd feet steel schooner (not counting bowsprit, etc). If you can picture in your mind a pirate ship, you're picturing a schooner. We haven't actually been out sailing yet, so I can't speak to how she handles, but I can say that knowing how to sail and knowing how to sail a schooner are two different things. There is just under a mile of *working* rigging on deck. I can't even count the number of halyards and sheets cleated off on anything stationary. There are 9 working sails. NINE! (I'm used to 2 and sometimes 3). Todd swears it's easy once you get the hang of it. And new-ish crew member Melissa says she's catching on pretty quickly. I suppose the really nice part of this boat is that it was built to run (sail downwind) and that once we hoist all there is to hoist, everything just sits there and off we go, at 8 to 9 knots! Soooo, doing a downwind circumnavigation is the best plan to have.

Down below, she's not like any boat I've ever been on. She was refitted in 100 days, and it shows. Some of the wood is finished, but most is just plywood quickly thrown up. There are haphazard step ups/downs kinda everywhere, and innumerable places to bump your head (which I seem to do at least twice daily). There are 3 proper cabins with doors, 2 of which have double berths (Todd's and Alex's), and 1 which has 2 single beds (mine). There are 2 more bunk areas walled off with curtains, the nicest one is Melissa's and the other is open. There's a small workshop and a nice nav station. There are a couple of really charming things aboard - a ship's clock (8 bells for change of watch), ratlains (ladder) for climbing into the rigging, companionway steps that are made from 100 year old wood. Here's the thing though, while she isn't terribly comfortable, she's obviously very strong and sturdy. I mean, she's steel. Supposedly she handles weather beautifully.

On to the folks....So there's Todd Duff, he's the owner and captain. He's 55 I think, divorced, with 3 boys and a girl. Originally from the states but now calls the BVI (British Virgin Islands) home. He's been a yacht broker and all other things marine for several years.

His son, Alex, is also aboard for the duration of the circumnavigation (at this time anyway). He's 17. I was already out of the house by the time my brother became a teenager, so I've never experienced "teenage boy" before. He's mostly fairly quiet, cooks, makes messes, is learning to play the guitar and sing, gets his heart broken...typical teenage stuff. But in other ways he's had a lifetime of experience already in cruising. I think he's already cruised 20 some odd countries. Last night, I had to chuckle, he was describing his perfect vacation...going to a house on land with big tvs where he could sit and watch tv/movies all day eating ice cream. Yep, I guess that'd be the vacation you'd be after if you'd lived all your life on a sailboat. :-)

Melissa, 28, is from the midwest but most recently lived in North Beach in San Francisco. She was previously on a catamaran that didn't work out, so she joined One World. She's very agreeable, positive, likes to have a good time, and oh did I mention, beautiful?! My self-esteem is gets a good workout when I stand next to her. I don't know too much else about her, but I'm sure we'll get to know each other better as time and watches wear on.

The overall vibe on board is cordial, but I wouldn't say we click. Everyone seems to want to do their own thing. This is much more my style than sing-a-long family-style, so that's good. But between you and me and the rest of the world, I think I'd like a little bit more click. Maybe that will come with time.

I find myself comparing this boat and situation to my 2 other crewing experiences. The most recent of course was on the Spirit of Nyami Nyami. Don and I clicked, boy, like I said, I would adopt him as my other Grandfather if I could. Ben and I got along fine, though we have quite different personalities. The INside of the boat was amazing - soooo comfortable and cozy - more like a little country cottage than a boat. The OUTside, well, that was what troubled me as you all know. And of course the experience level of the 3 of us left a little to be desired. And last, the financial situation was a cost-share, meaning I had to pay a share of the food and fuel. Reasonable, of course, but not ideal, as I have no money coming in. Then there was my passage from Trinidad to Panama on Robb's 45' cat back in 2006 was it? Maybe 07. Anyway, that experience may have ruined me for a while. Super duper comfortable boat, all expenses paid. Robb was a little tyranical at times, but he knows he is. It was also a clothing optional vessel. This is the only configuration that makes sense for long passages - I mean, laundry concerns right? :-) Anyway, I'm coming to the conclusion that there's no "perfect boat" out there if you're crewing. There's always going to be something you don't like - whether it's the people/a person, the living situation, the sailing situation or the money situation. I guess this is why people buy their own boats, but that's a whole nuther conversation.

For now, obviously, I'm going to make this work. I'm gonna get across the Pacific dammit!!

Update

Sigh, we're still in Curacao - haven't moved the boat an inch since I came aboard. The autopilot issue is FINAlly fixed as of just a couple of hours ago though, so that's good. The bad news is we're in a really tricky part of the world weather-wise. From Trinidad to Panama is one of the roughest passages in the world, believe it or not, due to weather. So there's a teeny tiny weather window opening up tomorrow, but given that we haven't tested the autopilot, it doesn't make sense to go. They hand-steered here because they had to. It wouldn't be wise to choose that scenario.

Sooo, it sounds like we're going to sail up to Klein Curacao - a little island off the mainland and anchor up there for a few days...leaving maybe late tomorrow afternoon or first thing Sunday. Then maybe later next week we'll get lucky with another little window, or just choose to go for it - which has to happen eventually.

In other news, I did 2 dives yesterday. Alex and Melissa are doing their PADI Open Water Certification and I came along for the ride. But, eesh, talk about embarassing, ...I've got a Divemaster certification, so when they were being taught howto set up the tanks the Instructor said "oh she should know what she's doing." But then he said something that didn't make sense to me about the way the valve should go, so I second guessed myself and spun mine around. Course then I'm attaching everything backwards, which felt REALLY wrong, but I kept at it. Anyway, then the instructor was like, "um, that's wrong." UGH, duh. Ya know that's the first time I've done that, ever...after I don't know 80 ish dives? Bleh.

Anyhow, the diving was pretty cool. I have to say doing your open water in the ocean is awesome. The dropoffs here are kinda unbelievable. We went from 10ft. to a sheer wall that dropped to, man, I don't even know, a few hundred feet maybe? In my opinion this is quite dangerous to take students to, particularly if the instructor doesn't pay super close attention, which he didn't, as the students are much more likely to be disoriented and/or not paying attention to their depths. Despite my earlier equipment snafu, I do still know what I'm doing underwater, and I'm very much like a mother hen while diving - keeping an eye on everyone. So I was glad I was there. Alex and Melissa both seemed pretty natural at it though, and with more experience, they'll be great.

Oh, last, I'm learning how to deal with SSB and pactor modems for sailmail, out of necessity, as Todd has never used them before. It's kinda neat! And a great skill to chuck onto my sailing resume. This way I'll be able to send very very small email updates to the blog and those that care even out in the middle of the ocean! If you're reading this and you want to be added to the list to receive those updates, email me.

Adios por ahora.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Pics from Curacao Online

Link's on the right!
http://picasaweb.google.com/heyjenjackson

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Hello One World

Arrived safe and sound in Curacao today. All 3 flights were uneventful. It was a little bit interesting sorting out how to get to the boat from the airport, it all worked out.

I met the Captain, Todd, his son, Alex, and crewmember Melissa. All first impressions are great.

Have had a shower and am now chilling on the aft deck typing away. Gotta love unsecured wireless networks.

More to follow once I get a lay of the land, err, boat. :-)

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

More pics

New pics from Mexico uploading as I type. Link to the right.

Friday, March 12, 2010

Decision Made!

Curacao here I come!

I was able to Skype with Captain Todd and Crewmember Melissa (www.schooneradventures.com). And between the lengthy emails I had previously exchanged with Todd and just getting to lay eyes on them to know they're real people pretty much sealed the deal.

Then it was a mad dash to get my plane ticket, as there was only 1 seat left at the $567 price point. Naturally I didn't have my credit card and was on an unsecure internet connection anyway, so my darling mother stepped up to the plate and took care of it for me. (I'm paying her back.)

On March 17, I'll take a bus from La Paz to Cabo San Lucas airport, then fly through LA, Miami and arrive in Curacao on March 18th.

Adventure Adventure!!!

Shakedown Cruise

A few days ago we set out for the Sea of Cortez islands north of La Paz. The first day there was no wind, so we motored up. We anchored in a gorgeous little cove near our friends SV Anon. All of a sudden westerly winds whipped up outta no where and got us all rockin and rollin. I felt my first touch of seasickness which sucked, but I didn't get sick.

In the morning we were up and adam early and got underway, anxious to sail. The batons we made helps the TOTALLY blown out main tremendously, but I'm 100% that we *should not* set out across the Pacific without getting a new main. We sailed along happily for a few hours, though we were beating into the wind. Then, all of a sudden, BANG! What was that? A fishing net that was lashed to the backstay seemed to pop up from the deck. We looked at all the stays and nothing had snapped, but still it seemed loose. Then, we saw it, the chainplate failed - and came up a bit of the way through the deck!! Yikes. This can be the making of a lost mast in the wrong circumstances. We quickly doused the sails and headed back to an anchorage. (Unfortunately I was lounging in the cockpit when this happened and I think I jumped up a bit too quickly as I had to toss a few cookies into the drink. My shipmates were impressed that I got sick, wiped my mouth and immediately started tailing a line. I can only assume that my somewhat embarrassing seasickness is from being away from the ocean for so long. In any case, I'm a get sick - get going kinda person, versus the get sick and stay sick kind.) Anyway, we motored back to an anchorage and had a quiet night.

In the morning we had a lovely breakfast (my Namibian special) and paddled to the island for a little hike. Gorgeous desert island with cacti and red rock everywhere. And on the other side, blue blue water. We swam and snorkeled some, and had a great time. We motored on back to La Paz. I read the last rigging survey that was done on the boat and it is troubling indeed.

Back in La Paz, Ben set to work on repairing the chainplate. We've consulted a few different folks in the area for opinions, but he'll be doing the work himself. I trust that it'll be done well, but what concerns me more are all the other things the survey raised flags on. Truth be told, you don't ever really get to leave port knowing nothing will go wrong on board, I get that. But it still worries me.

Our mainsail is blown out as well. We desperately need a new one, and they've known that for a while. But they thought they could just roll into Puerto Vallarta and pick one up. I have contacted a sailmaker there and found out a new main is going to take 4-6 weeks (which is what I'd expect, actually). When I reported that to the boys, they were put off. Ben said, eh, why wait. Just ship to the Marquesas instead (i.e. cross the Pacific with what we have). It's a downwind run and the main isn't that important. While this is true, I wouldn't do it, and I don't like the idea one bit. I've become very very fond of the owner, Don. He's surrogate favorite grandpa material for sure. But eesh, the boat....

Sooooo, where do things stand now? I went onto findacrew.net and registered as available crew. I was contacted by Todd, the captain/owner of SV One World (www.schooneradventures.com). They are sailing around the world over the course of about 3 years. They've just begun essentially, and are in Venezuela now. I could meet them in Curacao (near Aruba) next week. I have to pay my own way there (~$600), but after that all expenses are covered.

There are no other options for me here in La Paz. I could wait around for about a week with the boys and sail to Puerto Vallarta and try to find a boat there. Right now I'm leaning heavily toward One World. I'm hoping to Skype with the captain sometime today. I put it up on Facebook for a vote and so far it's a landslide: go to Curacao. The plan would be fly to Curacao, then do the leg with them to Panama - it's a short 4 day passage. As it happens, they are shorthanded for the trip and could use the help. It'd be a great try-out for me and them. If things didn't work out, I could much more easily find a boat in Panama (which was the original location suggested to me by Robb.....). Now if only Todd would sign on!!

More to come.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Pictures!

Pictures being uploaded as I type...
Link is on the left, or: http://picasaweb.google.com/heyjenjackson

All is Well

I’ve begun to feel right at home on the (Spirit of) Nyami Nyami. I’m a Nyami Nyamian now! The speed and ease at which this has all taken place is really unbelievable…
Monday: Arrive in Cabo San Lucas, met by a long-time friend Santiago who graciously drives me to La Paz and gets us settled.
Tuesday: With a friend of Santiago’s, visit the 3 marinas in town getting the lay of the land and leaving my cards on notice boards.
Wednesday: Go on the morning VHF “net” where all the cruisers in the area chit chat about the goings on here. I announce myself and what I’m looking for. Meet Don and Ben on SoNN and spend the afternoon together. Dinner with the boys and their friends from the anchorage.
Thursday: Move aboard.
Friday: Projects on board during the day (organize the library, assist with making batons for our sail), host party aboard for 10 people Friday night. Party goes to the wee hours of the morning – great conversations and warm fuzzies all around.

It’s still too soon to say everything is going to be just perfect. We haven’t sailed together yet. But I have to say it all feels very right. We’re quickly turning into a happy little family, and I’m loving the instant camaraderie they (and now we) seem to have with the other boats. I feel like I fit, that I play a needed role, which is so important to me. I’m going to learn a lot about sailing and systems on board. Man I’m excited to go sailing.

The current plan is to head out to the islands nearby for a day or two, as a shakedown trip to check out our newly repaired autopilot, mainsail and fridge. Then we’ll head to Puerto Vallarta, which is about a 4 day trip. (La Cruz, specifically). How long we’ll be there is dependent on how quickly we get done what we need to on board. I think the main items on the agenda are to get a new main and sort out the particulars of the Puddle Jump which we are a registrant of.

I say this with a grain of salt, as again, I have no idea how this “leg” of my path is going to turn out, but if it continues it helps me to believe with even more certainty that we truly can realize our dreams and create our own realities.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

Boat Found!

Just a quick post to say that I've found a boat! The Spirit of Nyami Nyami is owned by an older Zimbabwean fellow called Don. He has a captain on board from the states called Ben. We'll be heading to Puerto Vallarta sometime in the next couple of days.
From there, should I still be in their good graces and they in mine, we will point into the South Pacific. Their ultimate destination is New Zealand.

If we aren't thrilled with each other, there will be many many more boats in PV that are taking off to cross the pond. I've learned that La Paz is more of a stopping point on the way to points south in Mexico, which are more common jumping off points.

I'm very excited, naturally, but also a little bit in disbelief at how quick and easy this has gone so far. I've gotten good recommendations about Don, Ben and the boat from other sailors. Plus, it feels really good to have a short sail ahead to check everything out.

More to come prior to launch.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Arrived Safely

Arrived in Cabo San Lucas safely and was met at the airport by my friend Santiago.  He drove me to La Paz and tomorrow we will head to the marina.  More later.
 

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